Coffee culture has seen a boom in recent years. With waves of consumer coffee brands providing efficient and consistently caffeinated beverages to the masses. And later with a sort of counter push from artisanal coffee brewers to slow things down and make the coffee drinking experience more special.
But before the modern iteration of the coffee house, café culture was alive and buzzing on the streets of Istanbul.
Coffee has its origins in the Middle East and one of its centres was Istanbul (or Constantinople). Here the process of preparation and the customs of serving coffee would be perfected to the level of artistry.
This amazing dark brew, reflected an equally mysterious and unknown culture to Europeans who arrived in Istanbul. Soon enough coffee and coffee houses infiltrated their way onto the scenes of European society and culture. Nowadays many cultures have developed their own very unique ways of consuming coffee.
Coming back to Istanbul, almost back to where it all started, I wanted to write this article in admiration and tribute to all the fine ways and times I have enjoyed coffee in this historic city.
“To me, the smell of fresh–made coffee is one of the greatest inventions.”
Hugh Jackman
Turkish Coffee (Türk Kahvesi)
The café and coffee culture that influenced what we know as café culture today probably had it’s origins in Yemen and the Red Sea. This is as far back as reliable records go, but even then, we can see that the Yemenis got their favourite beans from highland Ethiopia. Which still makes some of my favourite origin and blend coffees!
There are two main characters that appear in historical accounts of how these beans came from Ehtiopia and through Yemen into the Ottoman Empire. The first is Özdemir Pasha, who was the governor of Yemen at the time, and the second are a pair of nameless Syrian merchants. They may even have been the coffee traders who assisted Özdemir Pasha in bringing the first shipments back to Istanbul.
Very soon, coffee was becoming popular among the royals and high societies of Istanbul. As coffee culture continued to flourish and as more and more coffee houses began to open, coffee began to infiltrate Ottoman life at every level.
Coffee houses were the places where men of the time would gather to socialize, share knowledge, play music, and even listen in for potential secrets.
Through ever increasing trade coffee beans and culture found its way to other parts of the world; Europe would eventually warm up to the hot caffeinated beverage.
Coffee has remained an integral part of Turkish life, even into modern times. The cafés are still the place to meet others, discuss, and share gossip.
Turkish coffee is also used in divination or Tasseography, and it’s actually a pretty normal occurrence to see two people in a private corner of a Caffe Nero or Kahve Dünyası (the local Turkish chain!) pouring over the shapes and residues of coffee beans and trying to read their fortunes!
Third Wave Coffee
What is Third Wave Coffee?
It’s a fancy term that refers to whatever is currently being done at the avante-garde frontier of coffee.
Simply put the Third Wave Coffee mentality or attitude is what brought certain concepts to the spotlight. Things like; artisanal or specialty coffees, single origin coffees, ethically sourced/traded/produced coffee, as well as unique and innovative pouring/preparation techniques.
If your favourite café pays attention to things like a charming atmosphere, how meticulously the coffee is prepared, and of course the journey it took to get to your cup; you can probably feel the influence of Third Wave Coffee Culture.
Why is this important? After all it’s just a name, which most places don’t even subscribe to anyways.
It’s important because we can see that the coffee landscape in Istanbul is changing. Places like Beyoğlu, Kadıköy, and Eminönü are still important centres for cafe culture and coffee with friends. But now we are seeing many more modern interpretations of that idea. There’s a Starbucks at nearly every corner, but also independent and Third Wave places are thriving on the same streets as music venues and second hand book stores (more on this later!).
You can see people on the same table enjoying a flavoured latte, or a dark, smooth Turkish coffee.
Even if the kind of coffee and the way in which we drink it has changed, many in Istanbul still go to the cafés to read, study, chat, and meet with like minded people. The spirit of the coffee house is still strong.
Coffee with books, or the Kitabevi Cafe
Many people often lament the disappearance of reading culture from our modern world. With the aid of both audio and video media, we can consume a whole lot more information than if we were to read it. With this shift of focus away from reading, the publishing industry undoubtedly suffered.
Around my early 20’s was when I started to notice the disappearance of my favourite book shops and chains. But I have hope for Istanbul…
It’s not like the publishing situation has been any different here, many still complain how little everyone reads in Türkiye too! However it seems like in terms of scale and magnitude, many Turks still value the skill of reading and the companionship of a good book.
Perhaps in a bid to bring in more customers many bookstores are also cafés. You can find both boutique bookshops as well as secondhand bookshops also doubling as coffee houses, often in areas of Istanbul which have been historically artistic or cultural.
The Kitabevi Cafe, or Bookhouse Cafe, is one of my favourite things about Istanbul. And while I’m sure it can’t be unique to this city, the sheer number of them must mean they are popular with the people here.
Recommendations for Kitabevi Cafes
The Kitabevi Cafe is one of my all time favourite places to hang out. It also never fails to impress my friends when we are looking for somewhere a little atmospheric while wandering the city.
So, here are some of my favourite places where you can soak both a good atmosphere as well as good coffee around Istanbul.
Istiklal Street, and the Taksim area, has both an abundance of second hand book stores as well as Kitabevi’s if you know where to look. My absolute favourite would be the “Turk-Alman Kitabevi” which has quite a lot of books for sale in both Turkish and German. The upstairs area is also nice to hang out, get some work done or do spot of reading. You can find this place just next to the Şişhane metro station, but be warned, it does get busy!
Another option for me would be the amazing Minoa Bookstore in Akaretler, Beşiktaş. This one will need a bit of a walk, but I have always found wandering the streets of Beşiktaş great to find your next new favourite thing. This place also has a few more food options and the choice of English books is much better!
If you do enjoy reading, I suggest you check out this article I wrote here. About what expats can learn from reading, let me know what you think!
The Asian side of Istanbul is also no slouch when it comes to culture, cute cafes, and of course books! Take a day to just walk through İcadiye Street in Üsküdar to find some absolutely stunning places. You will find the uniquely shaped Nail Kitabevi here. You may even miss it if you are looking at it from the wrong angle!
The coffee garden, searching for stillness in an ever moving world.
The word for garden in Turkish is Bahçe, and you can always ask if your newly discovered restaurant or cafe has one.
The bahçe is a staple feature in many cafes that I have tried out. These gardens draw many people away from the busy streets of Istanbul. Allowing them to hide in a world greener, and more peaceful than the one outside the cafe doors.
In the outdoor cafe gardens you will find many people enjoying their chats, music, or cigarettes alongside their coffee.
While the best time to enjoy the cafe bahçe is in the summer and sunny weather. They are a place that can provide a different kind of ambience all year round; even when it’s raining, so long as you have a jacket or cover!
The cafe garden is the secret reward for coffee drinkers who look for new experiences and new places.
Coffee by the street
One of the most memorable things about Istanbul is its magic streets. Hundreds of pathways run through Istanbul, crisscrossing over and disappearing into each other. Down each one is a potential new story waiting to be discovered.
So you better believe that each one very likely has its own place to sit down and watch the traffic go by!
Whether you are waiting for the next ferry or simply in need of stretching your legs, you’ll find it is an activity that is accompanied well by coffee.
Many of Istanbul’s cafes have a small section that either overlooks a road or a walkway. From here you can watch the faces of locals and tourists alike pass by, each one with their own individual story you can only guess at.
The other place you can do this, is in Paris. Having your coffee, chocolate, or cake while facing out from the café feels characteristically Parisian. And in some ways, Istanbul’s cafés by the street are the city’s own interpretation of that environment. Similar, yet still uniquely Istanbul.
Coffee that feels fancy
Right now I have written about vintage coffee in old book stores, coffee in unknown gardens, as well as coffee by the side of the road.
But, what happens if your in the mood for something a little fancier than that?
You can also find what you’re looking here in Istanbul. You might be looking for a large establishment with lots of comfortable seating options. Instead of the potentially uncomfortable chairs in small, poky establishments. Or perhaps you want a place with lots of mirrors, awnings, and a great, characteristically Istanbul view?
You can satisfy that itch as well. Both large chain as well as independent brewers are ready to serve you coffee that feels just a little fancy.
These places can often be found in some of the big name shopping malls outside the hustle and bustle of the tourist throng. Istanbulites love a good terrace view, so you can be sure to find many cafés with a view from above. Terrace views are extremely popular in the Sultanahmet region, where your view will include things like the Ayasofya, Blue Mosque, and possibly even the Bosphorus. A whole glut of the most attractive and popular things to do in Istanbul! And there are the trendier streets and districts, such as Nişantaşı, who’s cafés fit right in with the designer shops and brands there.
Coffee at night
Something that was surprising for me was that many cafe’s, at least in the popular areas, are open quite late. While malls often close around 10pm, you can find certain areas like downtown Taksim, Cihangir, and even Kadıkoy, keeping it caffeinated even late into the night.
Is this weird, or is this just me?
From my own experience, many cafes in Melbourne close even earlier than 10pm. And for those that stay open they often “switch modes”, converting the chill day time coffee lounge into a pub or bar at night.
Which is fine.
But Istanbul also offers that same lovely cafe experience late into the night. So you can sit and relax, enjoy those deep conversations, gossip, and encourage the next greatest idea all in the same place. It’s good for those who are not looking for their night out to be interrupted by too much alcohol.
A place for your quirks
Coffee has filtered its way into many different subcultures. And equally many different groups and individuals have made a good cup of coffee part of their daily routine.
Artists, gamers, fashion designers, and all matter of people now rely on that cup of caffeine to start their day.
This has resulted in some interesting crossover into different communities. You can find all sorts of merchandise and quirky items that represent a large array of humanity in coffee stores!
Perhaps a new local band is meeting at your favourite coffee place? Is there a meeting of special interest groups in your café? What sort of art pins, badges, magnets, or stickers are being sold there, and what does it mean?
There are so many ways to express yourself, and I’m glad to see new things popping up at every cafe that I go to!
